Fast food does not cook. Fast food assembles.

That is not an insult, it is the design. Ingredients arrive prepared, staff put them together, and the whole thing runs on speed and consistency rather than skill.

It is why a teenager can be productive on day three, and why the food costs what it costs.

Now picture a chain that puts marinated chicken over an open flame, in the restaurant, and cooks it.

That takes time. It requires someone who knows when it is done. It generates heat, smoke and cleaning work. It cannot be rushed by pressing a button.

Every instinct in the industry says do not do that.

And yet it is the only reason this particular chain is not interchangeable with everything else on the same street.

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