Picture a grocery store in the Arizona desert.

Now picture the aisles. One holds thirty kinds of soy sauce. Another holds chiles you have never seen. There is a wall of fish sauce, a section of Polish jam, a rack of Indian spices sold by the kilo, and a butcher counter cutting things a national chain would not stock on a dare.

The people shopping there speak a dozen languages before lunch.

Every rule of modern grocery says this is a bad idea.

Retail wisdom says to pick a customer and serve them precisely. Narrow the assortment. Simplify the supply chain. Know exactly who walks in the door.

This store did the opposite and built something a national chain cannot touch.

The reason is a category of demand that big retailers have historically been terrible at measuring, and it is worth understanding because it explains a lot more than groceries.

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